The Ghoulish Trail  (1st Stop)


Fort canning Park
Kampong Java Park
Bukit Brown Cemetery (Kopi Hill)
Mt Pleasant Cemetery
Devil's Bend
Old Changi Hospital

 

History

Fort Canning is the most historic part of Singapore.  The Fort was named in 1861 in the honor of Viscount Charles John Canning, the first Viceroy of India.  The hill underwent several name changes.  The Malays called it Bukit Larangan (Forbidden Hill) for several possible reasons.  (1) it reputedly contains the tomb or keramat of Sultan Iskandar Shah, the Malay ruler of the Kingdom of Singapura, who is said to have forbidden ordinary people to come to the hill because his concubines and wives used to bath at a spring there.  (2) the Malays were fearful of climbing the hill as they thought the palace of their ancestor kings had once stood there.  (3) the site had sightings of fabled lion for which Sri Tri Buana, ruler of Temasek, later named the island Singapura (Lion City).  (4) besides the fabled lion, the Malays believed that the hill is haunted by many other ghosts and spirits.

Sir Stamford Raffles claimed the hill for his residence, naming it Government Hill in 1822.  Until mid-19th century, Singapore's governors were residents here; thus the epithet 'Government Hill' as well as 'Central Park'.

The later Malay name for Fort Canning was Bukit Tuan Bonham, after Sir Samuel George Bonham, Governor 1836-48.  In the latter part of the 19th century it was called Bukit Bendera (Flag Hill), because of the signals made for shipping from its flagstaff, the red ensign for the closing of the P&O mails for Europe, a yellow flag for the China mails, for Calcutta the blue ensign, and for Australia the white ensign.

There is archaeological evidence of a 14th century town at Fort Canning and along the Stamford Canal and Singapore River. During the construction of the 30 million gallon capacity reservoir in 1928, Hindu Javanese gold jewelries dated to about 1360 was found.  Ruins of ancient brick buildings were found, that gave support to the legend of an ancient palace.
 

   



The Battle Box

The Colonial Building and park was once a British barrack before they were bombed by the Japanese during WWII.  Construction of this Underground Far East Command Centre began in 1936.  It was to be used in the event of war as the nerve centre for British Military operations in South East Asia.  The Centre was a maze-like complex of 26 rooms and corridors 9 meters underground.  It was there, during the WWII, on the morning of 15 February 1942 that Lt. Percival made the crucial decision to surrender to the Japanese.

Some 400 coolies were mobilized in leveling 3 hectares of hilltop and constructing the elaborate fort complex of barrack blocks, hospital, gunpowder magazines and supporting artillery.  In 1867, the fort had seven 68-pounder guns, eight 8-inch guns, two 13-inch mortars and some 14-pounder cannonades.  A cannon was fired three times a day (at 5am, 1pm and 9pm) in colonial times to announce the hour.

Those weapons were destroyed upon surrendering to the Japanese in 1942.  Today, a wax museum has been built bringing alive the days of the latest military operation complex in Singapore.  Admission to the wax museum costs $8.  Some public-accessible areas of the barrack have found to be used for ritual cult probably because of its unique spirit-filled sinister ambience.



The Keramat Iskandar Syah - The Royal Tomb?


Meaning "a sacred place" in Malay, a Keramat is the traditional burial ground of a revered leader.  It is uncertain who was buried here, though some people believe this to be the resting-place of Raja Iskandar Syah, a ruler of Temasek.  Malay traditions state that the first Malay king and his chief minister were also buried there.

Iskandar Syah was the last of the five kings who ruled Singapore during her golden age in the 14th century.  Singapore was attacked by an enemy but Iskandar Syah escaped and founded another kingdom, Melaka (Malacca).  Chinese records report that Iskandar Syah died around 1420, but do not tell us where he was buried.

       

The Keramat came in a form of a terrace.  It has a 14th century-styled Malay roof called a 'pendopo', supported by twenty wooden pillars carved in a fighting cock motif of Javanese origin, shelters this structure.  On the day that we visited the Keramat, we saw two Malay ladies offering flowers and incense to the tomb.  By law, no offering is allowed and the public are prohibited from sitting on the tomb.  Would they be the descendants or relatives of Iskandar Syah?



A Park or a cemetery?


The park walls are made up of tombstones and Fort Canning Park was once a graveyard for some 600 Christian grave.  This used to be the old Christian Cemetery until 1865.  The only graves left are at the far end of the Green (near Drama Centre).  Those tombstones that were removed were set into the wall surrounding Fort Canning Green.


Tombstones can be seen everywhere at Fort Canning Park

Pause here for a moment and imagine the famous men and women who gave their lives to the young colony.  They are the elite people having titles of lieutenants, generals or sergeants, etc.  Most of them died at about mid-age during battles.  Their short histories embedded in the walls that line the former cemetery.  There is a rumor saying that the tombstones came from Kampong Java Park that used to be a Jewish Cemetery instead of Fort Canning itself.

 
 
 
Answering Mysteries
1. Why Fort Canning was once called a forbidden hill?
2. Was Raja Iskandar Syah really buried at Fort Canning?  If not, who was there?

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