The Myths of Haw Par Villa   (Part 4 of 9)


Story (1): My Grandfather is in Hell


 

When I die, I'm not going to have a funeral like my gong gong’s. My funeral will be a quick and simple affair. People would arrive at three, say nice things about me, then leave at five.

When my gong gong died, his funeral lasted forty-nine (7 x 7) days. An army of priests gathered outside my grandfather’s house, ready to storm Hell with their rituals and rescue him from the demonic clutches of Yuen Thou Wong.

During the afternoon, I drank Fanta orange while the saffron-robed monks beat their gongs under the red canopy. The tock-tock-tock of their gongs mingled with the background music -- the Bee Gees singing "Staying Alive." To this day, I don't know who chooses the music for funerals. The only thing I know is that the same inappropriate music plays at public functions in Singapore all the time -- I've yet to attend a wedding where they haven't played, ‘Please release me’.

It’s usually terribly humid in Singapore, but today it was so bad it was like breathing soup. I hid under the red canopy, because on a day like this, five minutes under the sun and my black hair would be hot enough to fry an egg on. We tried that at a Brownies' camp once, but that's another story.

My grandfather’s photo sat on the red altar, flanked by bronze urns and brown joss sticks. In that starched, wide-collared white shirt, he looked unusually mild. In real-life, blown-up size, with his crew-cut (dark on top, grey at the sides), rough tanned leathery skin and Marlboro breath, he looked like a sergeant. He often acted like one, for it was his birth-right, as the patriarch, the head honcho of the family, to boss people around until he got what he wanted. Though my grandfather looked naturally stern, his pot belly, cultivated via the mass consumption of Guinness Stout and KFC, gave him a cheerful aura reminiscent of the Laughing Buddha. He didn’t dress fancy -- he went everywhere in his roach-bitten singlet and khaki bermudas, but there was one accessory he was genuinely proud of. He loved to play with his dentures, punctuating his sentences by lifting up his bottom front tooth. It was a gold tooth, and it was his only luxury possession.

I coughed. There was smoke everywhere -- grey smoke from the joss sticks, black smoke from the cars and trucks that whined past, and puffs of cigarette smoke from the monks having their tea break in the corner. I finished my twelfth glass of Fanta. Orange is a lucky colour, so it's the only drink, apart from Chinese tea, that’s served at our family functions. Though sick of Fanta, I asked for yet another glass of orange soda because there was nothing a kid of eleven could do at funerals apart from drink, choke on smoke, and wonder which level of hell the deceased had descended to.


*

My grandfather was in Hell, and he was taking me with him. He always taught me that everyone goes straight to Hell - “You are guilty until proven innocent.” Two bull-headed, long-tailed, trident-bearing, toe-tapping creatures waited constantly by your bedside, ready to drag you in chains once you’ve breathed your final breath. Our fate was sealed a few years ago when we went to Haw Par Villa. This was the garden of the gods, a real tourist-magnet, the home of the Golden Buddha, the Prosperity Buddha, the Health Buddha, the Longevity Buddha -- well, you get the idea.

My grandfather couldn’t care less about the statues. No, instead he made a beeline for the cave with the "Ten Courts of Hell". Boiling in oil, disembowellment, sawing in two, eye-gouging, tongue-plucking - all these tortures were re-created in wax, with a loving attention to detail - we’re talking blood, pus, intestines, sliced breasts and stray eye balls. Nothing was left to the imagination. One thing was clear: there is no hell like the Chinese tei yuk.

My grandfather pointed at the first exhibit, ‘Rats Gnawing Off A Man’s Tongue.’

"That is what happens to liars," my grandfather said.

I knew then that we were going to hell, for my grandfather lied about my age at the box office, shaving three years off my actual age to get me into Haw Par Villa for free.
My grandfather suddenly clamped his fingers on my wrist. "There are things that even Haw Par Villa dare not show. Tortures like the Exploding Water Torture. The demons stick a hose into your mouth, then pump you full of water. When your body gets big big, they jump on you and -- boom!"

I saw my heart, kidney and intestines sprayed across the walls of Hell.

"This is what happens to children who are not xiao xun”, my grandfather said. “This is how they’re punished if they have no respect and forget their elders.” He flipped his golden tooth out of his mouth and drew it back again.

Then he told me a tale that served as a guide, a sort of ‘How to Reduce Your Time in Hell’ story:

Once upon a time, there was a boy who lived with his widowed (of course) mother. He slogged all day planting rice, but his earnings only enabled him to buy a single bowl of rice. The conversation at the dinner-table usually went like this --

"Mother, take this single and only and last bowl of rice that we might ever get for the next two months."

"No son, I'm not hungry," she lied. "You need the rice to give you strength to plant more rice."

"Mother, I'm not hungry." His stomach growls.

"But son, you're so thin."

"But mother..."

You get the idea. Of course the mother gets the rice in the end. That night, a thunderstorm wakes the mother. She screams. The boy rushes into the room and hugs her all night until the storm dies.

After a few weeks, the mother snuffs it (tuberculosis would be an appropriate agent of death). So, after his mother is in the grave, whenever there is a thunderstorm, the son runs to

the graveyard and hugs the grave, crying, "Don't be fearful, Mother, I'm here to protect you."

After he finished his story, my grandfather dropped his Marlboro and stamped on it with his flip-flops. "After gong gong die that time you know what to do right?”
I shook my head.

“You must visit my grave, talk to me, bring things for me to eat. Are you going to do that?”
I didn’t say anything.
 
My grandfather nudged me. “After I die, you going to feed me or not?”

“I can’t.”

He glared at me. “Why?”

“I’m a Christian.”

“Since when?”

“Last week.”

“Who did this to you?” He enquired in that shocked tone people reserved for victims of child abuse.

“Uncle Cheong.”

*


Children have heroes whom they idolise beyond sense or reason. Possessing a transformative vision, children invest the object of their adulation with sublime qualities unseen by the common eye, a vision one often finds in poets, and second-hand car dealers. In my eyes, Uncle Cheong could do no wrong. Even his farts smelled like Aramis No. 7. With the heart of Mother Teresa and the body of Tom Cruise, Uncle Cheong was my hero, and whenever he came to visit, for a week I would be ‘Uncle Cheong did this, and Uncle Cheong did that.’ I loved the way his wavy black hair fell naturally over his broad shoulders, but Singapore Immigration didn’t share my admiration for his coiffure -- the airport officials always demanded that he cut his hair short or they wouldn’t let him into the country. He just laughed them off. The skin around his eyes crinkled whenever he smiled, which was often, and whenever he flashed his dimples, I just melted.

Perhaps, now that I’m older, if I met him today, I would view him differently. Maybe I would see him through adult eyes, my aunts’ eyes, see him as a rootless, idle, no good, useless bum. But I’d never know -- he died in a boating accident when I was in my teens. Who was the real Uncle Cheong? Was he a tramp, beggar, vagabond, or an adventurer, crusader, pilgrim? Juxtaposing fragments of malicious gossip with shimmering projections of my fantasies, I constructed my image of Uncle Cheong -- he was the collage of our Imaginations.

Uncle Cheong spent his life travelling around the world, doing missionary work for Operation Mobilisation, or TEFL-ing, teaching English in Third World cess pits. I always thought Uncle Cheong was like Michael Landon in ‘Highway to Heaven’ (only less soft-focus), an angel roaming the universe, going where good needed to be done. I pictured him wandering around rugged ruins, all stubbled and bulging-biceps, looking like the guy out of the Camel ad (only without the cigarettes).

Uncle Cheong was a free spirit, a dreamer. When you listened to him you could hear fireworks, exploding constellations, sweet jazz music booping across the muddy banks of a wide emerald river. In Uncle Cheong I saw a life spent cruising exotic lanes in the East and hip alleys in the West, working in desert cities where the humidity frosted the windows, where men cycled through sandy streets, pulling carts of ice yellow with sawdust. There he would open his window, to let in the thick smell of spices, the reckless butterflies and the song from the women, the psalm that rose above the golden city. Sometimes I dreamt of him wandering streets innocent of asphalt and corners untainted with street lights, sleeping in houses that cracked loudly as the cold night air contracted the wood, waking to walk in fields of gold, chewing oaten stalks until the sharp sweetness filled his throat.

Uncle Cheong dazzled me with incredible stories, tales of men who through faith shut the mouths of lions, slayed giants with a sling and a stone, turned armies of invaders to flight - stories that did what all stories should do: announce a history, while proclaiming a mystery. Stirring me with his smooth voice, his words came alive, hypnotized me and all around, I could feel the flower buds buzz, the electricity crackling through the mud of the earth. Everything became sensitive to the touch.

‘Jesus said that if we had faith as small as a mustard seed, we could toss mountains into the sea.’ Uncle Cheong said that we could stop the sun in its tracks, turn rivers to blood, make locusts sweep through the nation - all these things have happened before and can happen again. There was more to life than meets the eye, more than I could possibly imagine. ‘Faith is seeing what you can’t feel, taste, hear or touch, seeing with your soul, not your eyes. There exists a parallel universe, an invisible world, where the unseen is more real than the seen -- that’s the ultimate reality. What do you see when you look at the sun? Do you see a golden disc, or thousands of angels singing Holy, Holy, Holy? That’s what Blake tells us. We need to use our Imagination, see the world not with, but through the eye.’ Uncle Cheong told me the story of Elisha, how the army of Syria surrounded his house. His servant panicked, but Elisha prayed, “Lord, open his eyes, that he may see, that those who are with us are more than those who are with them.” Suddenly his servant saw the mountain filled with angels in fiery chariots.

Uncle Cheong told me that only if I surrendered all - ‘your fears, your goals, your life - to God,’- only then would I be able to find something amazing, miraculous, glistening with joy and rapture, life above the skies, lifted to a kingdom that was way beyond the blue.

I became a Christian because I wanted to be like Uncle Cheong. I wanted the jazz alleys, the burning sands, the road black with ice, a life raised to a visionary pitch, soaring above the earth to the heavenly kingdoms. On the god-awful streets of man, Uncle Cheong’s excitement, mystical devotion and sheer hunger torched me, taught me how to deal with the pit and prunejuice of life. He could out-road Kerouac any day. I didn’t see Uncle Cheong often, but whenever he visited me, I knew there would be cries and wild eyes, rocking and roaring, horns, snares, sticks, kicks. Whenever he arrived, I could hear a portal whine open, gushing holy white light onto the grey cement floor. All I had to do was lift my foot and step into a new, magical world, a world shimmering with tremendous possibilities. And then I knew -- big deep bass strumming in the heart kind of knowing -- that if I became a Christian, somewhere along the line there would be visions and everything. Somewhere along the line the pearl would be handed to me.

*

“If you become a Christian, after I die, who will take care of me?” my grandfather said.

“I don’t know.”

He drilled his finger into the side of my forehead. “You everything also don’t know. You better don’t listen to your Uncle Cheong. You want to end up like him? He’s so useless. He doesn’t care about anybody, only care about Jesus. After his wife died, you see him do anything for her?”

I shook my head.

My grandfather grunted. Then he said, “You’re Chinese. How can you become a Christian?”

I was going to say “I don’t know” again, but I decided that silence was the best policy.

“Now you’re a Christian, but you can always change your mind. You can un-Christian.” His voice grew soft. “So after gong gong die, you can take care of me. So do you want?”

“Want what?”

“Do you want to un-Christian?”

I couldn’t answer his question.

“You love me more or you love your Uncle Cheong more? You want to go Chinese heaven or Christian heaven?” He started rubbing my face with his palm. “Ai-ya, why you girls, always cry for no reason?”

I sucked the mucus up my nose. “I want to go both heavens.”

“Nowadays, you children are so spoilt. Always want both. Well you can’t have both. You got to choose one. When you die, who do you want to be with - me, or your Uncle Cheong?

I didn’t say anything.

He patted me on the head and smiled. “Never mind, don’t cry, I know who you’ll choose.” His golden tooth bobbed in and out of his mouth. “You’re not a bad person, like him.” He pointed to a man thrown from a cliff into a field of spikes. “You’re a good, filial girl.” Then he threw me a dark look, as if any aberrant behaviour of mine would be punished by a fate too horrible to imagine.


*

Now, some people might think that gambling at your father’s funeral would be a gross violation of taste and propriety, but not the Chinese. After all, my relatives reasoned, you need something to keep you awake. So, as darkness fell and eyelids drooped, my aunts and uncles clashed mahjong tiles across the plastic table top, while hired mourners huddled round the coffin, wailing and weeping. For some reason, these two groups seemed to co-exist happily: the mahjong players weren’t put off by the flood of grief by their side, and the mourners weren’t offended by the gaiety at the gambling table. Consequently, as at all Chinese funerals, sobs mixed peacefully with the triumphant cries of ‘pong!’.

A wave of murmurs rippled through the crowd. Heads twitched and eyes cast snide sideways glances – signs that always marked Uncle Cheong’s arrival. Many years ago, he had offended everyone because of the funeral arrangements (or rather, the lack of) for his wife. My aunts always gossiped -- ‘After his wife died, he couldn’t be bothered. Her funeral, just any how do, can already. He just put her in a coffin, dump in church, that’s all. Then the next month after she died, you know what he did? Go world tour. Wife not even cold in her grave yet, he go London, India, China, go all over the place, enjoy himself. All these men are all the same, so useless. Their wife die already, they so happy, can do whatever they want. No more wife, can get a life.’

But no matter what they said, they couldn’t poison my heart against Uncle Cheong. When he arrived, I ran to him, screaming, ‘Uncle Cheong, Uncle Cheong!’
He grunted as I crashed into his chest. ‘Woah, woah, and I missed you too.’
‘Play Superman!’

‘Ai-ya, girl, how come you got no taste, your grandfather’s funeral and you still want to play?’ He grinned. ‘If your mother sees us playing, she’ll scold us.’

‘I’m not afraid of my mother.’

‘Well, I am. Your mother is the fiercest woman I know. They didn’t make her disciplinary mistress at her school for nothing. Just one black look from her and I’ll curl up in a foetal position.’

‘But I’m so xian, this funeral is so boring.’

‘Your gong gong was so close to you, aren’t you sad?’

‘Yah, but you can be sad and xian at the same time. All I do here is sit and drink Fanta.’ I dropped my head. “Gong-gong love me so much, but I can’t even cry at his funeral.’

‘Sometimes we’re so sad we can’t cry. When my wife died, I never cried at the funeral, so everyone thought I wasn’t sad. I looked at her but it didn’t look like her. She was so white, so hard, it wasn’t her. She was packed in this big, black box, like something on display. It was like everyone was crying to this ice statue. So I couldn’t cry. But every night I dream about her, dream about how she was really like - living, breathing, laughing, and when I wake up - my T-shirt is all wet.’

Uncle Cheong told me about his dream: He saw the coffin that his wife laid in, heavily draped. It had twelve escutcheons, and twelve locks with twelve different keys. He sought those keys, crossed the wastes of sea, made runes in the rainless sands. Finally, he came upon the black beach. There, on the dark water, the dead lake, was the black-browed boat man, the guide of shadows, his cold pale hand at the oar. He boarded the boat. The oarsman toiled, bending his body, climbing through the night and the water, beating the oar until they reached the other side. There, on the dark sand, she stood, all in white, pure as her mind. She opened her arms to embrace him, her voice echoed his call. Echoed like an angel dissolving in the air, like a shapeless flame. He woke, and the echoes became mere echoes, sounds shaking dust in empty spaces - waking up to absences, to air without angels.

After he told me his dream, Uncle Cheong didn’t say anything for a long time.

‘When I die, I want everyone to cry,’ I said, ‘I want everyone to really miss me. I want buckets, real tubs of tears, Niagara falls. I want them to declare a National Day Of Mourning, and make everyone hang a black flag outside their flat. People better be upset, if not I come back and haunt them.’

Uncle Cheong laughed.

“What are you going to do now?”

Uncle Cheong shrugged. “Sit here and try not to fall asleep.”

“But isn’t that bad?”

“Why?”

“My mother always tells me that gong gong loved me the most. Last time, he always bring me go out, go to Haw Par Villa, go K.F.C. He never did that for any of his other grandchildren. But I never did anything nice for him.” I was only a kid, and there was nothing I could give my grandfather that he didn’t already have. “And now he’s dead. I have to do something for him.”

“But there’s nothing we can do. We just have to leave him in God’s hands.”

“But God will send him to Hell.”

Uncle Cheong spread his hands. ‘You have to be willing to be helpless, and let God be your help. You can struggle with your own power, try and fix things with your own flawed schemes, but you’ll find that it’s useless in the end. Better just to surrender it all to God. His strength fills us when our strength is gone.”

A shrill voice pierced the air. It was my mother - “Mei, stop sitting around doing nothing and come over here and help these people cry.”

She dragged me to the altar. The King of Hades judged the deceased’s popularity by the amount of tears shed for him, hence, the professional mourners. Volume, not sincerity, counted.

I stood there, trying to cry, bashing my heart with images that would bring tears: my grandfather after his stroke, sitting on the bed, his brain gone, a recipient of Interact Club care. Now, the Interact Club is a society at my school that visits old folks’ homes every week. Bearing gifts that they made during their Art classes - wooden clothes pegs glued together into toy chairs, bookmarks made out of dried orchids stuck on yellow construction paper, lanterns stapled together from red ang-pow envelopes - the Interact members act as surrogate grandchildren, chatting with the old folks. They always rounded off their visit by singing “That’s What Friends Are For”, only they never ever complete the song because by the time they reach the middle of the chorus, the sopranos (that is, the girls) have become a blubbering wreck. In Moral Education class, the Interact chairman would always share the latest “Granny Abandoned by Ungrateful Children” story, and my teacher would conclude with a lecture on filial piety, one of the core Confucian values found in the national curriculum. During these classes, my face had one of those mug shot moments, my features fixed in a vacant stare, emotionless, inscrutable, revealing nothing. I focused on the full stop chalked on the black board behind my teacher’s head, hiding what I felt, hoping my class mates would never find out that my grandfather was an Interact Club charity case.

During the few occasions when we did visit my grandfather at the Evergreen Moral Home For The Aged Sick And Handicapped, I never wanted to go back. It’s the smell that hits you first, the nauseatingly sweet smell of open sores and wet bandages, reeking of urine, saliva, sweat, pus - the stench of incurable sickness blanketed by the pungent odor of strong medicine. I stood at the doorway, gagging, my lungs fighting to adapt to the atmosphere. This wasn’t the smell of death - that would be bearable - no, this was the noxious smell of decomposition, when flesh and soul and heart and bone separate, then rot, deteriorate until all is reduced to a putrid pile of rubbish, ready to be wheeled out. The syrupy smell of decay.

The Home popped all the nasty ‘D’ words into my mind -- dark, dank, dungeony -- it was like walking into a giant sewer. Blades of light slid in from the steel-shuttered windows, stenciling the emaciated silhouettes crouched on their beds, skeletons draped with over-sized pajamas. The room seemed semi-liquid, the floor wet, the walls sweating, a sick dampness infused the air. There was nothing to do here, just old people on beds in the blackness, and the occasional nurse in white marching down the corridor, the steel bedpan glistening in her hand.

I couldn’t recognize my grandfather. His pajamas were too big for him, something I never thought would ever happen. The pot belly I always rubbed for luck had melted away, replaced by sagging folds of helpless flesh. He didn’t bark orders to his children, instead he just lay there nodding at their inane icebreakers.

“Look! It’s Mei Mei!” My mother would point at me. “Your favourite grand child come and visit you. Don’t you recognise her? Can you say the words -- ‘Mei Mei’? She bought you some oranges to eat.”

Technically, it wasn’t me, but my mother, who bought the oranges, but usually I was the one who offered the gift to my grandfather. My mother told me that -- “Whenever your aunts and I give him anything, he always push our hand away, but he love you so much, he will take anything from you.”
So I held the oranges towards him and said, “Gong Gong, eat oranges.”

The fruit hovered in his line of vision, but he didn’t seem to see them, his watery grey eyes remained blank. After a while, he said, “Oh!”

He didn’t say anything for the rest of the visit. My Second Aunt peeled the orange and stuffed it in his mouth.

This was not my grandfather, not the man who raised me, but a stranger I couldn’t connect with. It was like my grandfather had died, and this stygian pit was the first level of hell.

I thought about all this, standing in front of the altar at his funeral. God knows I didn’t do enough for him while he lived, the least I could do now was cry for him, but I couldn’t even do that. And I knew that because I couldn’t cry, the King of Hell would think that I didn’t love my grandfather and make him stay in Hell longer, which made me feel even more guilty. This line of thought dried me up completely.

Meanwhile, the pro mourners wailed on, the Nile flowing down their faces. I don’t know how they make themselves weep buckets, maybe it’s because they’re lamenting how Fate has been so cruel as to consign them to such a degrading occupation.

“Hey, you stand here so long, why you still don’t cry?” My mother dug her sharp nails into my arm, drawing blood. “Hurry up, pray to your grandfather.”
“Ouch,” I said. A tear finally trickled down my cheek.

*

Finally came the time that I dreaded the most, the few hours before the body is coffined - the Death Watch. Boredom, I could handle, but dealing with the threat of turning into a lump of coal was another matter altogether. According to my mother, if a pregnant cat jumped over the corpse during the Death Watch, the deceased would jerk up and start a mad dash, running in a straight line, uprooting trees in his path and killing anyone within his reach.

One touch, just one touch and the demon would choke all the breath out of you, turning you black.

Shoulders jerked at the unexpected clap of thunder, and a few of my aunts turned their heads from their mahjong tiles to glare at Uncle Cheong, like it was his fault. Two aunts volunteered to stand over the corpse with paper umbrellas to protect it from the lightning.

I heard a meow. I knew I was a bad person, an ungrateful, no-good non-crier. If a pregnant cat resurrected my grandfather, I’d be the first person he’d kill. I had to hide.
In the corner, two monks dozed at a table, the areas around their necks and armpits wet with sweat. I crawled under the table. Hidden by the thick table cloth, I hugged my knees tight to my chest, but I could still hear it, the cat’s long, cold meow. Did pregnant cats sound any different from normal cats? I wasn’t taking any chances. I shut my eyes but the vision wouldn’t go away - my grandfather bearing down on me, black, demonic, his arms flung out, clawing for me, droning, why you never cry for me? Now because of you, I have to stay in Hell. Why you never pray to me? Now I’m going to take you with me, forever.

The cold sweat soaked my clothes, made dark rings under my armpits and damp, freezing patches around the small of my back. It was no use hiding, my grandfather would find me anyway: the thump, boom, thump, boom of my heart filled my ears, drumming out my location to him. I didn’t know what to do. Should I un-Christian myself so I could save my grandfather by my own power? But if I un-Christianed myself, what about Uncle Cheong? Who should I choose?

This phrase suddenly popped into my head - Christ took my sins and cleansed every stain. Of course I always knew this, Uncle Cheong always repeated this to me, but before today, it was nothing but a dry, empty slogan, Christian auto-pilot words, a mantra chanted in church so often until it became nothing but a hollow noise. But under the table that day, I suddenly realized what it really meant, and I don’t know why.

Everything which God sees as bad is not there any more. Now things which other people might consider bad about me, things which my parents and teachers always scolded me for - like abandoning my grandfather at the old folks’ home, not crying at his funeral, crooked margins in my maths exercise books, forgetting to switch off the video - I still had these horrible flaws, but everything which God considered bad about me - that’s all been removed. In His eyes, I can do no wrong. Can you imagine having a relationship with someone like that? Someone who sees no faults in you, who finds nothing offensive or deficient, who weeps and sings songs of adoration to you, because in His eyes, you are flawless.

Nobody else I know can ever be as completely satisfied with me as God is - for other people, there will always be some flaw in me that makes me less than perfect in their eyes - maybe I’m too short, or too logical, or don’t squeeze the toothpaste in the right way. Christ is the only person who loves me because I am perfect in his eyes. At that moment, it didn’t matter how much my mother scolded me, or how my grandfather hated me, I’d found someone who would always love me to the point of near-worship, and I knew that that was the only thing I’d ever want for the rest of my life. All my guilt disappeared. My soul fed on Something, tasted the tears - were they mine or God’s? - for each drop lighted my mind, altered my genes, turned me into something new, from soul to soul, from blood to blood.

His spirit filled me until He became my very breath and my only desire: when I breathed I was using His breath and all I wanted to breathe was Him. Thus, panting after him and panting him, I opened my mouth and felt the unutterable kiss.

I opened my eyes. The thunderstorm stopped, and moonlight trickled under the table cloth like silver water.

One of the monks stirred. His hand went under his robe, pushing it aside. Before this incident, I’d always wondered what priestly underwear looked like. Was it spotless? Was it holy? The monk's robe fell open, revealing – Levi 501s.


Author: Hwee Hwee Tan from Foreign Bodies, 171 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10016.
 


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