Unearthing the Secrets of Singapore Shinto Shrine - Syonan Jinja  (Part 6 of 20)


Shinto Shrine Close Up


 
1. Grand shrine built in medieval period of time; 2. Original old ancient shrine

Architecture in Japan began with Shinto Shrines, simple rectangular structures with upright wooden supports, pitched gables and crossbeams covered with deeply thatched rice straw. The sacred grounds upon which they are built are called jinja.


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Harmony With Nature

Shinto - ˇ§the way of the kamiˇ¨ - is rooted deeply in pre-historic Japanese religious and agricultural practices. The term kami can refer to Japanese mythological deities, but also can mean divinity manifested in natural objects, places, animals, and even human beings. Shinto rituals and celebrations stress harmony between deities, man, and nature - a key feature of Japanese religious life and art to the present time.

Reflecting the understanding that the kami resides in nature, Shinto shrines were traditionally near unusual ˇ§concentrationsˇ¨ of nature such as waterfalls, caves, rock formations, mountain tops, or forest glens. Rather than buildings, shrines of the earliest age were sacred precincts such as mounds, groves, or caves. Rituals were held outdoors, among natural surroundings, with no particular structure for them. For example, the foremost ritual of Shinto priests, the purification (harai) was done with natural water sources such as waterfalls, hot springs and rivers.


Early Shrine Design

The earliest constructed Shinto shrines suggest the form of single dwelling houses in ancient times and were in fact intended to house ancestral spirits who would be given food offerings. This pre-historic Japanese ancestor worship was incorporated into the Shinto practice of enshrining deities named in the Kojiki and historical heroes as kami.

The kami can be divided into two main categories: kami of natural phenomena (the object kami) and kami of mythical or historical people (the active kami). Shrines were erected to house both kinds of kami and accommodate rituals and celebrations intended to maintain harmonious unity between the deities and man. The location of a shrine represented the legendary settlement of that shrineˇ¦s kami. The resident kami might be represented by symbols or sanctified objects. Under the influence of Buddhism, kami can also, though more rarely, be represented by statues

Like the earliest Japanese dwellings, the shrines were made entirely of wood. For walls, no clay or mud was used, nor was plaster or mortar. Poles set in the ground supported a thatched roof and walls. Thatching consisted of either the barks of the Japanese ˇ§hinokiˇ¨ or miscanthus or thin wooden plates, and the ridges of roofs are made of wood in the shape of a box. The roofs, which shed Japanˇ¦s heavy rainfall, are built up in a delicate curve from strips of Hinoki bark and then trimmed. The forked timbers on the roof are called chigi. The short logs lying horizontally across the ridge of the roof are called katsuogi.

Architecture in Japan began with Shinto Shrines, simple rectangular structures with upright wooden supports, pitched gables and crossbeams covered with deeply thatched rice straw. The sacred grounds upon which they are built are called jinja.

The shrine itself is enclosed with a surrounding wall and is accessed through a torii gate, often painted bright red and composed of two simple pillars with two horizontal lintels, which marks the passage from the mundane world into the realm of the transcendent.

Inside the enclosure, a water trough called a temizuya is provided for purification before entering the main sanctuary, called the honden, which houses the shintai, the sacred image of the resident kami. Only shinshoku, Shinto priests, are allowed into the honden. Other visitors are restricted to an ante-room called the haiden.

Shinto shrine usually face toward the south, or sometimes east, but never north or west. They are built of wood from hinoki trees, a variety of Japanese cypress, and are often surrounded by groves of sakaki trees (cleyera ochnacea), a kind of broadleaf evergreen that bears large black berries.

Offerings of food and other gifts are often made to the resident kami as a gesture of gratitude or supplication by priests and visitors, who summon the resident kami by clapping their hands and tugging on a thick rope attached to a bell. Many ceremonial rites are held in honor of the agricultural seasons, and the drone of Shinto priests can often be heard as they chant their sutras in homage to the presiding kami.

Shrines are highly sacred places and therefore one should always maintain an attitude of reverence and respect when on the premises. Assuming an air of humility and transcendence also helps heighten the experience of your shrine or temple visit.


Shrine Complexes

As Shinto became more established in Japanese society, people needed more convenient access to worshipping the kami, and shrine complexes were built within villages and cities. More convenient methods of conducting rituals were adopted and led to the introduction of the shrine complex with ceremonial buildings in addition to the hall enshrining the kami.

By medieval times the Shinto architecture developed a shrine complex surrounded by a fence entered through a sacred arch or torii. The complex included a main hall for worshipers (haiden), a smaller kami hall (honden) and a ritual landscape. Worshippers in the haiden directed their prayers to the honden, which housed a specific kami symbolized by a sacred object from Japanese mythology such as a mirror or sword.


The landscape design of a proper shinto shrine complex

Torii

Shinto shrine compounds are entered by passing beneath a torii. A torii is a wooden gate without a door, often painted red. Its origin is assumed to be the simple gate of the early shrine fences. When the fences were removed, the torii remained as a ceremonial entrance. The torii has become a symbol representing Shinto practices and a popular icon for Japan. This gate is constructed of two uprights, usually leaning gently inwards, with one or two crosspieces on top.


The shrine entrance is almost invariably marked by a torii.

After passing beneath the torii one enters the ritual landscape. Conceived as a religious space invoking harmony between man the natural universe, each shrine's landscape is unique and reflects the kami enshrined there.

Sando

The sando is a pathway leading from outside the shrine compound to the front of a structure for worshippers. The sando functions as more than a path for circulation; it is also a religious composition, preparing the minds of people for sacred worship. A sando is usually lined with an avenue of trees or otherwise marked in order to be distinguished from regular pathways.

Frequently the sando crosses a pond or stream with a sacred bridge called a shinkyo. This crossing symbolizes the purification of mind. In some cases, the shrine pathway is marked with stone stairways and lined with stone lanterns.


Ruins of sando (pathway) at Syonan Jinja from different angles; covered by wild grown vegetation

At the end of the sando, somewhere close by you will find a water basin with bamboo dippers. To purify yourself, pour water over your fingers, then into a cupped hand to rinse your mouth; spit into the gutter below. The water of these fountains is used for purification. You are supposed to clean your hands and mouth before approaching the main hall.

Purification basin

Purification rituals using salt, water and fire are part of Shinto and Buddhist practices. Every Shinto shrine provides water for washing the hands and rinsing the mouth before approaching the shrine.


1. A typical Shinto Purification through; 2. Ruin of such a purification through at the ruin of Syonan Jinja

There are two Japanese myths associated with purification rituals. The first is the myth of the god Izanagi no Mikoto, who follows his consort Izanami no Mikoto to the Netherworld. After he sees her in a state of decomposition, he returns to the world and purifies himself in a stream. Cleansing his left eye gives birth to the solar divinity Amaterasu Omikami. Cleansing his right eye gives birth to the lunar divinity Tsukuyomi no Mikoto, and cleansing his nose gives birth to the storm divinity Susanoo no Mikoto.

Two of these children are associated with purification in a second myth. After rampaging through the palace of his sister Amaterasu, the divinity Susanoo is forced to make recompense by offering up goods and having his beard cut and nails pulled off.

Kamainu

At the entrance of the shrine, pairs of guardians dressed in country robes and bearing arms protect the shrine in some proper shrines. Often you will also find statues of lion-dogs, or Nio gods borrowed from Buddhist temples, whose thunderous expressions are supposed to repel evil rant than scare backsliding worshippers. Another distinguishing feature are ropes of twisted straw (shimenawa) tied round a tree or rock or strung across the shrine building itself to indicate the presence of a kami. This pair of guardian dogs or lions, which are called Komainu, often found on each side of a shrine's entrance. In the case of Inari Shrines, they are foxes (see picture) rather than dogs.


Such guardian statues are no longer seen at the ruin of Syonan Jinja


The Kami Sanctuary (Honden) and Worship Hall (Haiden)

Depending on the shrine's architecture style, the main hall (honden) and offering hall (haiden) are two separate buildings or combined into one building. The main hall's innermost chamber contains the shrine's sacred object, while visitors make their prayers and offerings at the offering hall.

If the two halls (honden and haiden) are separated, the honden which is also known as the Kami's Sanctuary is the most exclusive part of the Shrine Complex - the space which houses the shrine's kami. Sometimes the Kami Sanctuary is closed to the public and only priests are allowed to enter in order to complete the ceremonies and purification required. In the heart of the honden is a symbolic object which contains the kami's numinous spirit (called the go-shintai).


Typical design of Honden or Haiden (main or offering halls)

In case of the active deities, prayers and food are offered before the kami's sanctuary (honden) in the inner temple. However, for the kami of natural phenomena, prayers are offered at the gate or at the outer temple. In ancient times they were offered on the open ground. Later, the Japanese introduced worship halls (haiden) facing the sanctuary to serve this functions.

In the case of some special shrines, such as the Great Shrine of Ise, prayers are offered by both priests and layman sitting on the ground outdoors where a temporary structure is built for offering prayers.


But at Syonan Jinja, the worship halls are flattened to ground zero; only some stone ruins remained

The worship hall is traditionally built of unpainted wood under a thatched roof, though there are plenty of variations. All, however, are fairly modest in scale. Even the Grand Shrine of Ise, marking Japan's sacred core, is by no means of imposing building.

You cannot go inside the worship hall, either, but have to be content with peering in from the entrance. Not that there is much to see. Just an offering table in front of the secret inner chamber, a sacred wand sporting zig-zag paper strips, and perhaps a mirror. This last symbolizes the absolute purity of the kami and the true faith of the worshipper reflected in its surface. A mirror cannot lie.

So what does the worshipper do? First they throw a few coins in the offertory box and then wake the gods by yanking on the bell-rope. They are then ready to pray: the basic ritual consists of two bows and two claps, followed by the prayer and a couple of bows to finish.

People visit shrines in order to pay respect to the kami or to pray for good fortune. Shrines are also visited during special events such as New Year, setsubun, shichigosan and other festivals. New born babies are traditionally brought to a shrine a few days after birth, and many couples hold their wedding ceremonies there.

There can be a variety of additional buildings such as the priest's house and office, a storehouse for mikoshi and other auxiliary buildings. Cemeteries, on the other hand, are almost never found at shrines, because death is considered a cause of impurity in Shinto, and in Japan is dealt with mostly by Buddhism.

The architecture and features of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples have melted together over the centuries. There are several construction styles, most of which show (Buddhist) influences from the Asian mainland. Only a few of today's shrines are considered to be built in a purely Japanese style. However, you can find the following common objects at Japanese Shinto shrines:

Stage

Stages for bugaku dance or theater performances can be found at some shrines.


Typical design of a theater stage

Ema

Shrine visitors write their wishes on these wooden plates and then leave them at the shrine in the hope that their wishes come true. Most people wish for good health, success in business, passing entrance exams, love or wealth.


Typical design of Ema

Omikuji

Omikuji are fortune telling paper slips found at many shrines and temples. Randomly drawn, they contain predictions ranging from daikichi ("great good luck") to daikyo ("great bad luck"). By tying the piece of paper around a tree's branch, good fortune will come true or bad fortune can be averted.


Typical design of Omikuji

Shimenawa

A shimenawa is a straw rope with white zigzag paper strips (gohei). It marks the boundary to something sacred and can be found on torii gates, around sacred trees and stones, etc. A rope similar to the shimenawa is also worn by yokozuna, the highest ranked sumo wrestlers, during ritual ceremonies.

Shimenawa are used to mark a sacred precinct. They are traditionally believed to ward off evil and sickness. At New Year's days even in the modern ones, people hang them over doorways or the front bumper of cards.


Typical design of Shimenawa


Other Ceremonial Spaces

As Shinto developed, other special buildings were added to the shrine complex to accommodate the different rituals. These include:

  • sanctuary (shinden)
  • prayer hall (noritoya)
  • offering hall (heiden)
  • worship hall (haiden)
  • culinary hall (shinsenjo)
  • abstinance hostel (sanrojo)
  • shrine office (shamusho)
  • washing place (shozuya)
  • exorcism place (haraijo)
  • votive picture repository (emaden)
  • Kagura dance platform (kaguraden)
  • treasure repository (homotsuden)
  • shrine fence (mizugaki)



Guiding thoughts in Japanese Aesthetics


Naturalness - Gardens and any aesthetic object should be natural. Design with the intention of marking your creation look as though it had grown that way by itself. Simple objects which will fit in with the natural surroundings.

Odd numbers - When placing elements in a composition, use odd numbers such as one, three and five. This will better result in a sense of natural asymmetry.

The triangle - Compositions such as groups of stones, branches on a tree, etc. can be judged based on how easily one may draw an imaginary triangle between any three elements.

Asymmetry - Balanced symmetry, as humans devise it, does not exist often on nature. Therefore, it is better to make designs asymmetrical if one wishes to create an impression of naturalness.

Brevity - "Less is more" This idea is most evident in Zen gardens, where a single stone may encompass the idea of an entire mountain or island. Remove what is unnecessary, and the composition will be strengthened.

Wabi and Sabi - Two of the hardest concepts of Japanese aesthetics to express in western language, generally they are wabi; "subdued taste", "austere", and sabi; "rustic simplicity", "mellowed". These terms were created by the Tea masters of the sixteenth century.
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